As normalcy begins to timidly permeate the daily goings-on of Baghdad, the ravaged Iraqi capital, it seems too soon still to speak of the region as a travel destination – a profound shame, for these lands are no less than the cradle of civilization itself. Ancient Babylon and Assyria take root here, to which the remnants of Assyrian Ashur, Parthian Hatra and capital Ctesiphon, and the Sumerian city of Ur serve as testament. While the country’s central and southern parts go on being overwhelmingly off-limits, the north, taken over by the autonomous Iraqi Kurdistan, boasts surprising many attractions and is relatively secure, safeguarded by its own army and strict border checks, putting the minds of visiting adventurers and volunteers at ease.